A Food Tour of New York

After my too-brief weekend in NYC, I have compiled a list of a few of my favorite city eats. Despite common belief, New York ought not be experienced solely inside the Michelin rated restaurants of Wolfgang Puck and Mario Batali. No, the real New York lives in the holes in the wall, where the floors crumble under their age, and the aromas of authentic cuisines from around the world mingle in the street.

Go to these places, and you will have experienced New York at its best.

Soup Dumplings at Shanghai Cafe

Dumplings with soup inside. Delectable dim sum and delicious tea.  In the heart of my favorite NYC neighborhood.  Chinatown is a world of wonder.

Pierogis and Borscht at B & H Dairy

A hole of all holes in the wall, this place makes the best pierogis in Manhattan. Greenpoint, well, that's a different matter.  This place has been around forever, and I hope it remains forever. I don't know why it has 'dairy' in the name. Maybe because they serve sour cream with everything.

Cafe con Leche and Chicken Soup at El Castillo De Jagua

This chicken soup embodies comfort food. Hearty, salty, thick. The cafe con leche is perfect, a better day in a cup.

Halva and Turkish Delight from Economy Candy

Directly across the street from El Castillo de Jagua. It's an overwhelmingly well-stocked candy store, like the kind you envision from the 1940's. In fact, this place has been in business since 1937, and it's like stepping into a sweet, sweet time warp. I like to order freshly cut halvah and turkish delight by the pound.

Pelmeni at Uncle Vanya Cafe

Can you tell that I like dumplings? Chinese dumplings, Polish dumplings, Russian dumplings, I love them all.  I also love Russia, and being at Uncle Vanya Cafe feels like being in Russia. It's authentic; it's yummy.


An Egg and Cheese Sandwich at any Deli

No one in California knows how to make a decent egg and cheese sandwich, and those who try, charge way too much and are skimpy with the cheese. In NYC, an egg and cheese on a roll with salt and pepper costs between $2.50 and $3.50, and is huge and oozes with American cheese.  The more hole-in-the-wall the deli, the better the sandwich. It's a thing about NY that I miss very much.

These are all things that I miss about New York. Inexpensive foods from around the world, available in such quantities that you can grab a bite of heaven-on-earth as you go about your every day.

How to Love Los Angeles

Take the train to Union Station.

Yes, LA has a metro.  Ride it, take note of its uncanny timeliness (trains arrive on schedule to-the-minute). Observe the diversity of the ridership. Check out the neighborhood-centric art at the stations. Walk around Union Station, gawk and its beauty, and realize that there is both history and architecture in LA.

Bar-hop in Downtown LA.
Go to the dives like the Down and Out, Bar 107 and King Eddy's Saloon (John Fante drank there). Then, go to the swanky spots like Seven Grand, Varnish and The Edison.
Tip: Do this on a Wednesday or Thursday for maximum enjoyment, and minimum crowds. 

Get a steak and a martini at Musso and Frank.
Musso and Frank is not only in the heart of old Hollywood, but also embodies the heart of Hollywood. It's been there forever, and so have its waiters. Charlie Chaplin was a regular.
Tip: Take the train, wander the area. Do not drive into Hollywood. Seriously, don't do it.

See a movie at The Vista.
Screw the Arclight. The Vista is king.  It's an old-style movie theatre with a grand, gilded ceiling, red velvet curtains, and a gem of a manager.

Ride your bike from Santa Monica to Hermosa Beach and back.
You can rent bikes for $20/day at any of the major beaches. This activity will leave you dripping with gratitude for life and its wonders. I do not exaggerate. You'll see dolphins and surfers and the weirdos of Venice, and you'll feel like you're in paradise.  Because you are.

How to Love Los Angeles will be a monthly post.  I'll list five different things to do every month. Do these things and you're guaranteed to uncover LA's unique charm, and fall irreversibly in love with this city.  No looking back.

This list was for beginners - those new to LA, or those only here for a day or two. I'll get into things like art, culture, theatre and entertainment in later lists. 

The City Prolific: Weekend Events July 20 - 22

Last weekend, we saw Sonny and the Sunsets and The Allah Lahs at Levitt Pavilion in MacArthur Park. MacArthur Park is a star of city parks, on par (landscapingly speaking) with any you can think of - Dolores, Alamo Square, Union Square, Bryant Park, maybe even the Luxembourg Gardens.  Unfortunately, it has spent the past few decades being synonymous with crime, and, with our city totally lacking in budget, uncleanliness.  It's on the mend, though, and the Levitt Pavilion events are helping to put it back on our mental map.

We put out a blanket, ordered pupusas from the Mama's Hot Tamales tent, poured ourselves a couple of inconspicuous cocktails, and watched two great bands perform against the sunset.

LA loves movies, and during the summer we show it. Most of this weekend's events are, once again, outdoor screenings.

FRIDAY, JULY 20

Unique Movie Night: Fasttimes at Ridgemont High

Everybody loves the 80's, and we all miss those angsty 80's teen comedies. Tonight, Unique LA screens Fasttimes - oozing with 80's kitsch, it is also, may I say, a rather depressing flick.

The hosts will hold a Jeff "Surfs Up" Spicoli impression contest, so, as they say, "start working on your stoner-surfer talk"!



$10 online/$12 at the door

Ticket cost includes free drinks (both non-alcoholic and alcoholic). There will be a curated selection of local food vendors who will have dinner items and sweet treats available for sale.

Doors open at 7pm / Movies start at 7:30pm sharp

Mosaic ArtSpace in the Arts District
826 E 3rd St.
Los Angeles, CA

Oscars Outdoors: Pillow Talk

Summer screening series at the Academy's new open-air theater, located on the Academy Hollywood campus. This beautifully landscaped plot of land behind the former super-dumpy Big Lots is a gorgeous addition to the neighborhood.  What makes this screening series stand apart from others is that each film is preceded by an introduction by and little discussion with with an industry professional who worked on the film being screened.
Food Trucks provided by Roaming Hunger. Trucks will vary each night and will be tailored to the movie showing whenever possible.  Lawn seating – blanket or low chair. 

Tickets are sold online at www.oscars.org. For sold out films, a standby line will form on the day of the event, and standby numbers will be distributed at 6pm; available tickets will be sold at approximately 7:45pm.

$3-5
Gates open at 6:30pm, screenings begin at sunset.
Free parking for advance ticket holders.

Academy Hollywood
1341 Vine Street, Hollywood
Enter from Homewood Avenue (turn west off Vine Street).

Closing the Distance with an LA Summer

My parents live in Salt Lake City, Utah. When I lived in New York City, I often lost sleep over how much I missed them. The distance was too great, and it burrowed a hole in my heart that let the wind in at night. Since moving to California, the hole has shrunk. I don't know if it will ever close completely, unless I find myself living in the same city as them one day.  It's size has greatly reduced though, to where I almost don't notice it in between visits, as long as the time between visits grows no longer than three or four months.

Recently, we let six months pass between visits, and I once again felt the wind whistling through the hole in my heart at night. It started keeping me awake, so I called parents and told them I was having trouble sleeping.  They hopped in their Subaru and drove the six hundred and eight eight miles to see me in Los Angeles, and spent six days with me leading up to the Fourth of July. I'd been fortunate enough to receive an unexpected three days off work, which, tacked onto the weekend, gave me five full days with them.

It is during visits from out-of-towners that one unearths a real appreciation for Los Angeles and all it has to offer. Every day, we did something quintessentially iconic of this desert dreamland.

Happy Hour at Stout Burger
One of the best burgers in LA. Usually $10 - just $5 during happy hour.

Happy Hour at St. Felix in the EaCa Alley
Hollywood's First Pedestrian Alley, with sidewalk cafes for the restaurants on the eastside of Cahuenga.

Martinis at Musso & Frank
One of the oldest restaurants in Los Angeles, and firmly rooted in its founding time, Musso & Frank is famous for their martini's, but they make a great Manhattan, too.

Wine Tasting and Picnic at Malibu Family Winery
Gorgeous picnic grounds in the Malibu hills.  The wine may not be spectacular, but the experience is.

Happy Hour at Duke's Malibu
There is no better place to relax over a Mai Tai after a day in the sun and sand.

Levitating Mass at LACMA
A striking site, to see a giant boulder behind Miracle Mile. Brings Canyon Lands to Los Angeles, making a statement about open space and architecture. (There is SO much space in LA!)

Happy Hour at Mohawk Bend
They have a billion craft beers on tap. Seriously, a billion. Plus, a nice patio in which to enjoy them.

Dinner at Masa
The best deep dish this side of Chicago.

Photo by QuarryGirl

Karaoke at Sardo's in Burbank
This neighborhood karaoke bar is one of my favorite places on earth. It is low-key, it is unassuming, its clientele is wholly comprised of neighborhood locals. Step into Sardo's and you're no longer in Los Angeles, you're in Anywheretown, USA.

My dad and my husband performed "Surfer Bird" and got the only standing ovation of the evening. That's my dad for you. Watch the video here:



Strolling the Laguna Beach Strand
You can't get closer to Paradise anywhere. Hawaii? Bah. We have Laguna.

Lunch at Nick's in Laguna
What is better than a deviled egg? A FRIED deviled egg, that's what.

Happy Hour on my Hollywood Porch
Who needs to spend any money on happy hour, when one happens to be quite a skilled bartender, and has a lovely porch in the heart in the Hollywood?

War Horse at the Ahmanson
The book came first, then the play, followed by the movie. The play features incredible hand-crafted,  puppeteered horses.  What the play lacks in dynamic storytelling, it makes up for in artistry.

Manhattan Beach for the Fourth of July
Absolutely my favorite place to celebrate the Fourth of July. It becomes quite a drunken ruckus in the evening, but during the day, the beach itself remains fairly calm.  It's nice to stake out a large spot on the sand, and then, on the way to the bathroom, glimpse the parade of drinking-to-get-drunk post-college kids that peacock up and down the strand.

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First Friday of the Year - Hollywood, St. Germaine, Fuku Burger, Strangers

Joseph was excited about the weekend. He was IM'ing me every second of the last hour of the work day with ideas about our evening plans, and he finally, decisively declared that he wanted "burgers, Manhattans, and video games".  I suggested the usual: Stout, Umami, or The Bowery for the first two, we'd take care of the third at home later. He checked Scout Mob to see if there were any deals, and he found a "$30 for $50 Worth of Food and Drink" deal for FukuburgerLA on Cahuenga, as well as a happy hour event at Space 1520. Our plans took shape then and there.

We made one of of our typical strolls into Hollywood, walking past Franklin Village to see what was going on at UCB and to check up on the Scientology Celebrity Center - make sure those religious celebs weren't getting too rowdy - and then we turned onto Hollywood Blvd at Bronson, near what would normally be the always-lively crowds at the Music Box (sadly, it closed its doors this week, and last night it sat silent).

As we passed the W Hotel, we stopped to watch an a capella trio whoop it up in front of the Pantages. I desperately wish I'd gotten video of them, but they were so good that I got caught up in the moment, and forgot.

We arrived at Space 1520 to see that the happy hour was taking place within PUR, a vintage boutique.

A bartender mixed St. Germaine cocktails with a California Brut, and a DJ spun mashups while tipsy hipsters shopped the racks of carefully curated vintage.

I remarked on how very LA the clothing choices were, with lots of bright, Southwestern desert patterns, and Joseph mused on how very different the vibe of such an boutique would be if it were in San Francisco or New York. LA has a strong personality, and we like it.

After we'd over-indulged in St. Germaine, we walked around the corner to Fuku Burger. We've enjoyed the gourmet burger revival taking place in LA in recent years, and were excited to try another outpost. I ordered the Tamago Egg Burger, and devoured its Asian flavors in minutes. It is now, greasy hands-down, my favorite burger in LA.

From our table behind the bar, we had a straight-on view of the large television on the wall, which features a live feed of @fukuburgerla tweets. Joseph tweeted something about Fuku Burger being his new fave, but autocorrect changed the v to a c, making Fuku Burger his "new face". I tweeted a response, which prompted a surprising and hilarious exchange with some other folks in the restaurant, and we found ourselves crying from laughter over the whole thing.

As we wiped the tears from our faces, our server informed us that two men at the bar wanted us to join them for a couple of FukuBombs - a shot of sake dropped into a glass of Sapporo. The guys were great - funny and friendly, and we felt like tourists being treated by welcoming locals. The whole restaurant cheered as we guzzled our bombs.

It was a wonderful, very Hollywood night of walking, shopping, cajoling with strangers, and of course, drinking. I'm amazed I didn't wake up with a hangover.

The City Observed: Katsuya

Katsuya is a trendy Japanese restaurant on the corner of Hollywood and Vine.  It is often the backdrop of paparazzi photos and videos featuring the likes of Mark Wahlberg or Charlie Sheen exiting its large glass doors and gliding into their fancy cars at the valet.  There is a lot of Hollywood hype about Katsuya, but I’d also heard that the food is good.  When Dine LA Restaurant Week rolled around, I convinced my non-seafood-loving husband to choose this as our semi-annual dining splurge.

Katsuya’s decor is within a color palate - deep reds, pinks, and blacks – that one might find described as ‘sexy’ in the local glossies.  The clientele is largely made up of the kind of people I’d expect to see standing behind the red velvet rope of Hyde Lounge or Teddy’s, or on the rooftop of The Standard Hotel – that is, trendy – hoping that their shiny lip gloss or fleur-de-lis-emblazoned blazers will help them get discovered.  Joseph and I sat at a corner table at the back of the restaurant, and my unobstructed view of everyone kept me quite entertained. 

My amusement over the atmosphere of the place didn’t, thankfully, inhibit my ability to take the quality of the food seriously.  I really enjoyed it.  The Albacore Crispy Onion was so tender and intriguing in its flavor and texture, with its marriage of soft and crispy, marinated and grilled, that even my non-seafood-loving husband ate a full portion.  The Baked Miso Marinated Black Cod was decadent and reminded me of dusk, if dusk had a flavor.  As enamored as I was by my cod, I was less impressed by Joseph’s dish, the Beef and Mushroom Toban Yaki.  Although the beef did meet all expectations for medium-rare Kobe, the mushrooms didn’t add much of the earthy flavor that I generally expect from them.  Joseph was pleased, though, nodding his head enthusiastically and widening his eyes for emphasis when I asked, “How do you like it?”

Katsuya is known for its cocktails almost more so than its food, therefore, despite the exorbitant price of $14 dollars per, I ordered the Eastern Raspberry Sidecar: “hand pressed fresh raspberries intertwined w/ Hennessy VS Cognac & Nigori Sake, rounded out w/ Cointreau and freshly squeezed lemon”.  I love sidecars as well as every single ingredient on this list, thus I assumed this cocktail would suit my taste.  It did not.  It was watery and monotonous in flavor, like a frappe with too much ice that’s begun to melt. 

Overall, my experience in Hollywood and Vine’s trendy restaurant with trendy cocktails and trendy food was, maybe not top-notch, but upper-middle-notch. I’m glad I went and that I’ve got Katsuya under my belt now (being able to say I’ve been there might help me get discovered).  I will say, though, that I was somewhat disappointed that not a single paparazzo showed up to snap my picture when I exited the glass doors and glided home, along the Walk of Fame that had been wetted by rain (those charcoal tiles are slippery!).